More updated Photos SOON !!!

More updated Photos SOON !!!

;-)

Lighting and effects

Separete Mains only for socket outlets

<----- Mains

Building and Wiring the side Panels absorbers

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Absorbers

Adjustable Speaker Stands

Packing up the bass traps

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Packing up the bass traps with rw 75 all the way to the top

Installing the Parquet and skirting

The skirting is disconnected from the floor by 1/8 of an inch

Click on the photos to enlarge.

Laying the 5 mm rubber mat and 2 mm insulation

The 5mm rubber mat which will be laid down under the parquet will help seal all the floor and will be as tight as a camels arse in a sand storm ... more of this later !

Installing the 100x50 trunking and wiring the socket outlets

Installing the ceiling at 8 degrees

Painting and decorating

Absorber wall part 2.

Preparation and installing the A.C.

Ok, so as you can see in figure 1. i have prepared the first red board, the base to fix the ac too, but as this will not be boarded up with gypsum board but will covered with a frame and material stretched to it i need that the ac will be in level fit the cloth so i needed to fix another couple of 5/8 boards on top of the red one, it will also be a nice solid base as you can see in figure 2 and 3, figure 3 also shows the marking of the back plate of the ac so there i could fix the 4 mm rubber mat under the back plate to eliminate any noise as you can see in figure 4 and 5. figure 6 shows the installed A.a.c., figure 7 shows the air gap left above the ac where i will be placing 75 mm rock wool behind too.











Here is the 60 mm hole drilled {which later will be filled air tight with expanding foam}, to pass over the pipes and cables to the compressor which will be fixed on the roof

Installing the plaster boards

Floor dis level ...

A wall was standing right in this patch on the floor, which was also creating a dis level in the floor tiles 0f 5/8,s which is no problem if you are laying a carpet like i had before, but now i decided to lay a parquet and it needs a level floor so i decided to create a step in order to achieve my wishes, the higher floor as you can see in figure 4 that of a 6 inches of hard core and sand will be right under the desk, right where the speakers will be standing enough of that will be serving as a good acoustical de-coupling.

In order to form a step i need to have a layer of concrete, so i need sand 3/8 gravel and cement,
and a strip of wood for the edge.

In this case the piece of would will remain in the place,placed on the lower part of the floor the strip of wood which is the same height of the other part of the floor, i will explain why, i laid the concrete 1cm lower from each sides, so before i lay down the parquet the remaining 1 cm will be filled with sand which will be again serving as a good acoustical de-coupling, since over it the desk will be placed.

{Something that i like to add which i learned through experience that might come in handy is, if you ever mix some extra concrete that you want to use later lets say same day instead of throwing it away and make a new mix put the concrete in a strong plastic bag and it will hold wet and soft for ages}

Click on the photos enlarge

Frames for Bass trap Covers

Click on the photos enlarge


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Bass traps

Each corner is going to be equipped with a 19 inch from each corner bass trap floor to ceiling, that later on you will see them filled up and packed with rock wool.
So here I needed 2 frames to work out for each bass trap, the first one to be fixed solid to the rest of the wall frames and the second one will be covered in loose material as a finish and will be fixed over the other by means of Velcro.

They consist of 2 inches by 1 inch less the plaining of the wood white wood PVA Glue and 4.5 x 50 screws.

The bass traps will be packed solid with 75 mm rock wool cut into triangles photos later on will show more into detail. Using 75 mm rock wool for each bass trap I will need a pack of 8 pieces each so total of 4 packs.




So here we go .... I needed a hand here either from someone or something to
hold my 45 degrees lengths of wood up in that angle so I could drill enough
space to berry the head of the screw, This is the best idea i could come with
at the time, it worked pretty well i could even have for in a row at one time.

The 8 mm bit, these kind of bits are awesome, when you drill a little hole the point of the bit creates a place where to put the screw in and holds by itself, very handy when you got only one set of hands.

Gluing and screwing the first frame together









Click on the photos enlarge

The fourth wall ..

Here goes the last wall frame work done waiting for it to be filled with 75mm rock wool and boarded it up with plaster board.































Click on the photos to enlarge

Absorber wall Part 1.

The red board is the base which will be the air conditioner fixed to, under the base will a 4mm rubber mat to avoid any unnecessary vibrations and other noises that might occur , holes will be cut to pass through wires pipes etc, after the plate will be fixed to the board i might be cutting holes once again to the red board to keep air flowing through it since behind the board i will fix a 75mm rock wool

and the 3 gang switch box, you will see the result of this later on when the material will be fixed to the frame, just the switch showing on the surface.























Then i had to transfer again the 13 amp socket outlet from the mass wall to the absorber wall and also the light switch which was to be barred behind the other bass trap, ... hmm here comes the tricky part, improvising as part of the job, s0
a trip to the hardware store usually helps solving some problems and this time it did, some brackets that usually are used to hang cupboards and shelves with some alterations they have found them selves being part holding up a socket outlet and a light switch box.

2.5 mm double insulated flexible cable inside a 20mm flexible conduit and long enough wire to take the wall for a walk about.


Here goes wall 3, the
gigantic absorber wall. this wall will not be plaster boarded up but instead will be covered in loose cloth stretched on a frame that will be fixed to the wall by means of Velcro and of coarse filled with rw 75.

Moving of a 13 amp wall mounted socket outlet

Here is where i had to move this socket outlet that will be obstructed by a bass trap on the back of the studio. I was not in favor of using a chasing motor to cut out the space for the 3 x 6 box too much dust, so best solution was to drill 20mm holes and knock them out.

This outlet will have nothing to do with being part of the studio equipment circuitry for that I have wired a new installations straight from the main distribution to the control room but i will get to that later, but for ordinary use.

Closing up the 2 windows

Taking a break from building wooden frames i had 2 windows leading to another room to take care of.
These 2 windows with arched top that i had in mind one day that will be nicely done in stained glass with lights behind leading to the living room just went out of the window.. so as you can see both blocked with 6 inches lime stone blocks hell there r f***** heavy ! ..of coarse i didn't build this just by myself a friend of mine who is a builder helped me with this part of the assignment.

Although this wall is going to be covered with a mega absorber wall it still felt that i should plaster it, never used this white gypsum before to plaster so again this was a challenge for me but hell like I always say, you never know what you are capable of doing unless you try !
and there you go job done gov.

Mounting the frame to the mass wall.....

figure 1. ---------------------------- figure 2.

After drilling a hole through the wooden frame with an 8mm bit i had to drill a wider hole enough for the the nut to fit in the frame {as shown in figure 1.} so that the mounting surface will be flash to the wooden frame {as shown in figure 2.}

A good idea that I found very handy is to saw a groove in the threaded stud so you could use a screw driver to screw in the stud through the frame into the mountings.{as shown in both figures below}









Needless to say I used a washer and a spring washer to tie up firm and without worrying that by time it might get loose. {as shown in both figures below}

Rubber mountings their alterations and installation ...

Of coarse these mountings come only with a short thread and also with an English thread which is not the same as the metric normal thread which we find bolts and nuts in a hardware store but in a way it worked out in my favor.

I had to cut each end of the bolt attached to the mounting leaving only enough to screw on a metric nut, being a different thread not only it screwed on but it was solid tied.

Then I cut the threaded stud to the size needed and screwed it on the the nuts, on the other end I used a Raw Bolt to fix to the stone wall, {as shown in figures below}

























Click on the photos enlarge

Mountings

Since i didn't need to have a floating floor i couldn't let the four walls just free standing without being thighed, so, i had to come up with a solution to thigh up these 4 standing walls, and if i had to thigh them up straight to the walls i would have done all this work for nothing, cause of the vibrations from the air born frequencies would have leaked through the studs on to the wall, here is what i have done, i went to a local car parts store and i asked the dealer to show me any possible rubber mountings he has available in the store, i took a sample of each mounting home with me while i studded their tension and flexibility, calculated the height of the finished wall and weight approx. and decided which mountings to use and how many needed for one wall.
It's important that the mountings will not be too hard or too soft.



Point A is the left corner
Point B is the middle corner
Point C is the right corner
Point D {not included in the photo}

From the points of the walls A, B, and C i only tight to
the wall A and C, B and D are free standing but also at point B i thighed the 2 walls with mountings to avoid any energy traveling to each other wall.

Details

So, to go a little bit more in detail, I have fixed a 3mm thick carpet to the 9 inch lime stone walls, then the 75 mm Rock Wool, after that is the 2.3/4 inch by 1.1/2 inch frame roughly in metric 70mm by 38 mm wooden frame which is not touching the rock wool, so between the rock wool and the plaster board there will be an air gap of 70 mm.

I don't need to use a floating floor for my studio taking in consideration its a 10 inches concrete floor plus the tile underlay which I had put extra 2 inches then the usual over 1 inch tiles etc and I had a fitted carpet with underlay never had a problem with energy leaking to the floor below, but taking a close look to these photos, you see is a close up of the bottom of each wooden frame, I fixed with silicon 2 x 3mm carpet and on the other photo a 4 mm rubber carpet which is used for an underlay for basket ball pitches, I was lucky I got a load of this for free,... anyway all this will absorb all the vibrations from leaking to the floor.

2 of the walls are up as you can see more to go but i will leave that too you imagination ....

here goes a close shot of the 75 mm rock wool and behind it fixed is a 3 mm carpet used it as an underlay more to absorb instead of chucking it in the skip...

Here is the second wall coming up ... not much details in photos here minimum tools and no work bench but hold your horses you will see how things starts to take shape in the work shop building the studio up ...

and here goes the rock wool behind the frame the frame is waiting for the other walls to come up, the red board is fixed there to support an air conditioner to be fixed after the plaster boards have been fixed, and the little strip of wood fixed to the second lane at the bottom is to support a 3x6 13 amp socket outlet and 3x3 phone and internet outlet.

Step by step into rebuilding my new studio from scratch ..

Starting from scratch was not exactly easy ! pulling everything out of the studio including equipment an and other stuff but most difficult part was stopping composing music hmmm .....

here is a photo of the first frame up to the wall, not bad for starters.

Click on the photos enlarge